Blumarine RTW Fall 2014: Unexpected Heritage

February 22, 2014
By Sheryl Blasnik
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On Friday, Feb 21 Blumarine, founded by Anna Molinari, presented their Autumn/Winter 2014-15 collection at Milan Fashion Week.

Blumarine A/W 2014 MFW

Unexpected combinations of luxurious fabrics and essential styling generated a modern flair: the focus on materials was the point of departure of this new collection. Like the mirabilia in a modern Wunderkammer, the dresses, in rich kimono colors, tell stories and intertwine evocations in the relief prints and delicate embroidery, but manage to achieve an up-to-date finish in the luxurious high-tech duchesse satin displaying clean cuts.

The overcoat with the rigorous styling featured a treated-effect jacquard fabric, scattered with roses, again in jacquard, creating an engaging 3D garden with highly dramatic fox detailing.

Weightless as a cloud, baby alpaca has been rendered in a fur version as details on a coat, boasting a mix of artisanal manufacturing, in soft yarn for slightly oversize effects, or in downy fabric for coats flourishing geometric golden embroidery.

The buttery soft plongé leather defined sharp geometric shapes or fluid fullness in black or ink blue, lending itself to various treatments, from micro-pleating to embroidery work boasting golden micro-sequins.

Blumarine A/W 2014 MFW

The evening wear was brightened by shimmering jacquard lamé highlights, introduced diagonally into the weaves of the plumetis lace in a play of see-through allure, imbuing the dresses with animation and lightness. More lace virtuosity distinguished the dresses featuring sartorial patchwork patterns of different laces.

Textural dynamism characterized the flocked satin of the pencil pants and slender jackets, the wrap-dresses and the jacket-dresses vaunting lapels in golden laminate enlivened by dainty jacquard patterns.

Bugle beads had an embroidered net-effect onto the bodice of the ball gown in chiffon, while the futuristic gold laminate was cut and placed to both highlight and conceal the bust in the arabesque lace dress.

Cascading applications on the silk blouses in emerald and royal blue tones, two important colors which take on a luxury twist combined with gold, as in the dresses with special floral jacquard inserts in black tulle, creating a sophisticated fané veil.

Sumptuous materials also distinguished the accessories. Stiletto heels and platforms for the pumps in leather and karung snakeskin, featuring two straps and gold clasps, also used for the over-the-knee boots in fine leather. Basic-chic describes the alpaca tote brandishing a handle and bow in gold elaphe snake, also coming on the nappa leather clutch. The maxi clutch was in a karung-nappa leather, in embroidered duchesse satin or in a fabric and metallic nappa leather combination. The jewelry had a gold metal finish ; chokers and cuffs with enameled studs, while the bracelet, fashioned to resemble snake skin, flourished a bow, a detail also found on the bags, obis and belts in nappa leather and suede.

The entire runway show can be viewed at blumarine.com.

Photos: style.com

Sheryl Blasnik

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